If you ride a bicycle, you more than likely wear shoes
(sorry, flip-flops don’t count). The
kind of bike you have, and the type of riding you intend to do, will dictate the kind of shoes
you will wear. If this is not the case, it ought
to be.
If cycling does have one odd human-factors issue it is with
the whole shoe/pedal nomenclature. You
clip into clip-less pedals, but you do not clip into toe-clips. Once you get past this oddity, you can see it
is not too difficult to comprehend.
However, this article is not about pedal types, but about the connection
your body has to the bikes locomotion – The shoes. Road shoes, in this case
There is one thing I have found to be absolutely true
regarding road shoes – A stiff, pure carbon sole is better than anything
else. They do not flex, and the power
which can transmitted through them is far greater than a non-carbon sole. Period.
A friend of mine uses cycling/athletic shoes with an SPD
cleat. Fine and dandy for off the bike
(and fashion), however, the power she is losing with that super-flexy sole has
to be astronomical. However, this is the
trade-off if you choose to not go with a stiff soled shoe.
Buckles, Boa’s, Laces,
And Straps, Oh My!
There is a common belief the more securing systems a given
shoe has, and thus, more secure the foot is in the shoe, the better. This is simply not true in this mild-mannered
evaluator’s experience. The rationale
behind a very secure fitting shoe is the precise application of power and optimum
tactile feel. However, this, in my
opinion, does not add up dollar-wise in the real world of ever-more expensive
shoes. The double-edged sword of snug
and secure are countered by the issues of restricted circulation and hotspots
as the feet warm up and swell. I find
simple straps extremely sufficient to get the job done. If I was a Pro Tour rider I may feel
differently, however, the bulk of manufacturer’s customers are not racers, so a
“Racing Snug” fit is an over-sold feature to everyday cyclists.
Case in point: I have a pair of Sidi Genius 5 Pro Carbon’s and
a pair of Lake CX-235C’s (the “C” designating a
full-carbon sole). Both are very good
shoes, however, they go about performing their jobs in very different manners. I
paid $60.00 for the Lake’s (on close-out),
while the Sidi’s were $220.00 on sale (regular retail was $269.99 at the time),
and have a “Millennium Carbon” sole, which is market-speak for, well, not real carbon. While I am a big fan of Sidi, and their stuff
fits me like a pair of slippers, their shoes get awfully expensive at the
upper, carbon-soled, end of the range. You
can get top of the line, carbon soled, Sidi’s for about $500.00, which is nowhere
near cheap for most people (If you are really feeling brave, you can pay $1250.00
for a pair of custom fit D2's or Riivo’s).
The Sidi Genius 5’s are made from Lorica (synthetic leather),
and comes with two Velcro straps, plus one of them ratchet-type, thingamabobs
all the shoe makers seem to rave about.
Sure, ratchets are a nice feature, and you can get your feet plenty snug
with them, but I find them a pain to fasten and unfasten. Overall, the shoes fit really good, look
great, are well built, and are prone to giving me severe hot-spots.
The Lake’s are amazing,
full-carbon soled, real leather cycling shoes, with three, simple Velcro straps. They have now been replaced in the Lake model line by the CX236C’s. Shame, as the 235’s completely rock! They fit darn good, are very well built,
super-easy to adjust on the fly, and do not give me any hot-spots. The only down-side I see, so far, are the
non-replaceable heel pads, which are part of the molded, carbon sole. So, when they get too worn, I will have to
get creative to find a workable solution to this issue.
In the real world of road testing, both pairs of shoes performed
very admirably. Getting in and out of
the Lake’s can be done quickly, and can even
be performed without looking at your feet.
Once underway, if an adjustment is needed, it is easy to do so with the
Velcro straps. The Sidi’s require a
super-precise guiding of the buckle through the ratchet (it rarely works the
first time), and adjustments on the fly takes a bit more work than I consider safe.
See, what truly matters to the everyday cyclist is not a lot
of the bells and whistles, but the balance of procuring the stiffest sole their
wallets can afford.
Yes, We All Have To
Walk, Too
A few tips about going bi-ped in your very expensive cycling
shoes. First, do it very carefully, as
you will be perched upon the cleats of the shoes and the heel pads. And, all heel pads are not created equal, so
pay attention to what you have, and practice a little bit if you must. My other tips for waking in your cycling
shoes are to do it as little as possible, and to use cleat covers to minimize
the damage that can be done to said cleats, whilst also cutting down on the
noise. Unless, you enjoy sounding like
Gregory Hines tap dancing on concrete, that is.
Putting It All Together
Putting It All Together
So, when looking for a cycling shoe, having a good understanding
of what kind of riding you will be doing and what you wish to accomplish will
help in the selection of the correct pair.
And, for those of us not having the fortune to be born trust fund
babies, being conscience of price becomes a moral imperative.
The latter is why actually purchasing features we can use
are more beneficial than simple marketing hype.
hello!! Very interesting discussion glad that I came across such informative post. Keep up the good work friend. Glad to be part of your net community. Cycling Shoes
ReplyDeleteReally good points made in the article... just been using the same lake shoe having the day before used shimano plastic and a bit more roomy in larger size, and notice a difference and last week using spd's and shimanos so I notice a slight but progressive difference between all.
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